December 01, 2015: “Rice Noodle Fish”

One of the joys I have these days is the occasional contact from some of my students from my old job that choose to stay in touch with me. Not only is it a pleasure to see these fine people as they progress through life, but it makes me think that I just may have done a few things right in my old position.

Sometimes it’s fielding Facebook posts from Sarah on her career as one of the finest wedding photographers in New England. Once and a while I’ll get a very entertaining Twitter from Regan’s son, Mason…or perhaps a spirited comment here from her mom. Sweet Emma will chime in on FB, from time-to-time, with news of weird weather patterns, and even weirder wildlife from “the land down-under.” True to form, Isaac may suddenly show up out of nowhere to “kidnap” me to go see a movie, or like his last contact: a phone call to announce the birth of his son!

A couple of weeks ago, Regan sent me a link to an article on okonomiyaki (the comfort food that Yoshio has published a book about, and where this blog gets its name) that she thought I would like…and she hit the proverbial nail on the head! The story was about everything I try to write about in the blog: making good Japanese food in the most authentic way possible, while trying to explore Japanese culture as best a Westerner may.

The story was about a Guatemalan chef who emigrates to Hiroshima to make okonomiyaki…something almost unheard of, as the Japanese can be wary of gaijin (foreigners) and almost never would accept a gaijin cooking what is considered to be Japans’ most hallowed comfort food! The first thing I noticed was the article was very well written: a story/tapestry of  history, Japanese food, travel, cooking techniques, the pursuit of excellence, all wound around a personal story of daring and success! Needless to say, I loved the article, but towards the end of it, I had one of those, “Hey! Wait a minute!” feelings.

Back up to a week and a half before. I’m at my local library, checking out films and asking for help with research on a piece I’m working on. I’m striding to the checkout desk with my usual brisk pace, when a book practically leaps out from the shelf at me!

This has happened a few times in my life, and it always has served me well to follow the instinct: one time, it was a rare book from a former teacher of mine that did the “leaping” and I still cherish that book to this day. So, whenever this happens, I just roll with it.

The leaping book was “Rice Noodle Fish” (Deep Travels Through Japan’s Food Culture) by Matt Goulding. “RNF” is published through Roads and Kingdoms (an independent journal of food, politics, travel, and culture.) The book seems to be strongly attached to Anthony Bourdain, who I gather is some sort of celebrity chef of some sort. I could not be less impressed by this part of it, but if this attachment got the book published… fine, but the writing (and some of the photography) is Matt’s.

My “Waitaminute!” moment was one of perfect synchronicity: Regan’s article to me was from a part of “Rice Noodle Fish” that I hadn’t gotten to read just yet. Whenever I pick up a new book, I look to the dedication. To my mind this sets the tone of the book, and Matt Goulding has nailed the right tone (and my interest and trust) with his:

“To the shokunin (artisans) of Japan, pursuers of perfection, for showing us the true meaning of devotion.”

With this measure of respect, one can continue, and the rest of the book is just pure fun: it is part travelogue (Matt divides the book into the separate regions of Japan); part etiquette book; and part history book. But the main focus is on the variety of the people and food of Japan. Best of all (for us) Matt’s perspective is from a Westerner, but one who is thoroughly open to Japan’s people and food. Like most of us, Matt freely admits he will never completely understand the myriad of subtleties of Japanese culture, but offers a handful of guidelines, tips, directions, and even some language, to smooth the road for the open adventurer who is looking for a taste of the unfamiliar.

Roads and Kingdoms have made portions of the book available online. It also offers some tips for those traveling to Japan: roadsandkingdoms.com/japan

[Much thanks to the Randall Library of Stow, Ma. for having stocked such wonderful leaping books and for my extension on my loan to complete my article.]

November 12, 2010: Hiroshima Okonomiyaki

Yesterday, Yoshio and I shot the 20 step process to making Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki. Shown above is the final step with Chef Saito finishing off the okonomiyaki with a sweet mayo on top of the okonomiyaki sauce (an apple-based Worcester sauce.)

These treats are very popular in Hiroshima, where on average, a person might have them twice a week. It’s considered “fast-food” in Hiroshima, but it is made fresh and to order with hundreds of combinations of meat, seafood, egg, cheese, fried noodle, cabbage, bean thread, and topped off with sauce/mayo over the okonomiyaki “crepe” made with fish stock and flour.

September 07, 2010: Okonomiyaki, Panini-style

Today’s original okonomiyaki dish from Okonomy is Chef Yoshio Saito’s panini-style okonomiyaki. This is the traditional okonomiyaki recipe but made in a modern panini machine. Chef Saito has a variety of sauces and toppings for this style, but he devised this dish to show how okonomiyaki can be made with other, non-traditional cooking tools.

May 03, 2010: Takoyaki

Today’s Japanese-fusion dish is Takoyaki and is a recipe that hails from the Osaka region of Japan. “Tako” is octopus and is the most popular version of these golf-ball sized appetizers made by Chef Saito of Okonomy. Similar to a smaller Okonomiyaki, each appetizer (other variations include chopped meat and cheese) is formed with a savory pancake batter, but differs from Oknomiyaki as the batter is flavored with Chef Saito’s soup stock. Each is then grilled and topped with a sauce and anori (a sea vegetable, see 0ur March 17, 2010 entry: Toppings for Okonomiyaki). Sometimes, instead of the savory batter, Chef Saito will substitute panko (Japanese bread crumbs.)

March 17, 2010: Toppings for Okonomiyaki

Aonori (top) is a special sea vegetable that grows on rocks near the seashore. After drying in the sun, the resulting green powder is packaged. Aonori is sprinkled on Okonomiyaki just before serving.

Katsuobushi (bottom) is finely sliced bonito. The dried bonito is bought in speciality shops. When purchasing, the Okonomiyaki gourmet will strike the whole bonito against a hard surface and listen for the sound: the clearer and higher the pitch, the better the Katsuobushi. The bonito is then shaved with a special plane-like device to get the right thickness. Katsuobushi is also used for making stock, and might be the most important ingredient in Japanese cuisine.

You may find both these toppings for Okonomiyaki at any Asian Gourmet Store.

March 14, 2010: Motoman vs Yoshio???

Motoman SDA-10 Robot making Ononomiyaki

Yeah…we would love to see Motoman just TRY to mix Okonomiyaki sauce and mayonnaise, on the top of Okonomiyaki, with an edge of a spatula like Yoshio does! We think Yoshio is better looking too (…but, we bet that Yoshio would like to have Motomans’ burly shoulders!)

March 11, 2010: Photo of Okonomy Staff

Master Chef Yoshio Saito (right); Assistant Chef Stephen Vedder (left)

March 11, 2010: The “Ten Commandments of Okonomiyaki”

An edited excerpt from Chef Saitos’ book “Way Beyond Sushi, A New World of Okonomiyaki”

OK. There’s really 11.

Commandment #1: Have a hot griddle

The griddle temperature should be from 320°F-410° F (160°C- 210°C) You can test your iron griddle by dropping water droplets on the Griddle’s surface. If they move around very rapidly, it is too hot.  If the droplets stay in one place and make a water puddle, the heat is too low.

Commandment #2: Spread the batter in a circle

Use a ladle to pour the batter on the heated griddle.  Using the round bottom of the ladle, move in a circular motion from the center towards to the outside, increasing its circumference.

Commandment #3: Use the proper cooking oil

To make the cooked surface crispy and prevent it from sticking, Okonomiyaki Restaurants often use lard for its flavor and appearance. Since I already have high cholesterol, I use vegetable oil. Non-stick cooking spray works well. I do not recommend an oil with a strong taste such as olive oil.

Commandment #4: Cut the cabbage in thin slices

Cut the cabbage in quarters from top to bottom. You will see a hard core. Cut out the core and then cut the cabbage cross-wise, cutting from the top to the bottom. This helps to maintain the crisp texture of the cabbage. Cut as thin as possible. Also, cabbage is sweeter close to the bottom.

Commandment #5: Don’t push!

After turning over the Okonomiyaki, don’t push it down with your spatula. Pressing squishes the small air bubbles and makes Okonomiyaki a heavy texture instead of light and pleasing. Also, not pushing down allows steam from vegetables to circulate better because air spaces can move around. That brings out the sweetness of the cabbage.

Commandment #6: Perfect timing

For Hiroshima Style Okonomiyaki, cook at 390°F for 4 minutes on one side and 8 on the other to accommodate the extra thickness of cabbage & bean sprouts.

Commandment #7: For speed, use the quick method

If you have a Panini machine, a Foreman grill, or sandwich press you can cook a quick Okonomiyaki.  Due to the pressure from top, I recommend you put more vegetables than usual so the Okonomiyaki won’t be too flattened by the top griddle.

Commandment #8: Trap the heat

For Kansai Style, you can put a lid on the griddle when you first turn over the Okonomiyaki.  This will help to steam the cabbage on top while maintaining the crispness on the bottom.

Commandment #9: Put air in

Wait until right before you are ready to cook to mix the ingredients.  Then try to turn as much air into the mixture as possible to ensure its fluffiness.  The best method is to mix the ingredients from bottom to the top in a circular motion for 30 seconds.

Commandment #10: Get the right thickness

The thickness of the Kansai Okonomiyaki should be around 3/4 inch, which is the best thickness to maintain its correct doneness.  Hiroshima Style may be as thick as 4-6 inches, depending on the ingredients added.

Commandment #11: Decorate the top of the Okonomiyaki

There are a few methods of decorating with toppings and sauces.  A typical one is a drawing lines on top of sauced Okonomiyaki.  You create a thin lines every quarter inch and draw a think lines perpendicular to mayonnaise lines with a chop stick or a back of knife.

February 23, 2010: PHOTOS of Okonomiyaki

Seafood Okonomiyaki (Hiroshima-style) as uncovered by "crepe"

Seafood Okonomiyaki (Hiroshima-style) as uncovered by "crepe"

Seafood Okonomiyaki (Hiroshima-style) covered by "crepe" and sauce

Okonomiyaki (Osaka-style)

Okonomiyaki (Osaka-style)

February 22, 2010: Meeting with (Chef) Yoshio

I know this is going to be confusing, at some point, so I will try to explain as best as I can: I will sometimes refer to Okonomy’s Chef Yoshio Saito as just that “Chef Saito” and sometimes just “Yoshio”. With Yoshio being a complex man and with my having a diverse and rich history with the man, he’s hard to categorize: is he a friend? A mentor? An artist? My boss? Teacher? Fellow chef? Well, the truth is that Yoshio is ALL of these things (except he is far above my skills in the latter!) So, when I refer to him as “Yoshio” I guess that is the friend, that i am referring to, who has influenced and guided me for so many years, as only a friend can do. For the rest, he’s “Chef Saito”!

We got together on the 22^nd to get a few of his Okonomiyaki dishes photographed. I will post these presently, but as always, time with Yoshio (AND Chef Saito) is always so much more than merely “time spent”, I felt compelled to have a separate entry.

It was great that in-between my photo activities, I got to watch Chef Saito in action making the assorted Okonomiyaki dishes. I’ve heard a lot from Chef Saito on the making of Okonomiyaki, but have never seen it. I can only hope that the photos capture his care and craft as he assembled each one in delicious layers of assorted seafood, vegetables, with that unique Japanese crepe and sauce! I don’t think that the whole process will truly sink in until I am able to watch him make these, step-by-step. Someday, when there aren’t photos to take, but I feel that we only captured a few of the hundreds of variations of Okonomiyaki!

Even with all the work to do, Yoshio finds time for the things that are equally important.  First, he never fails to feed me very, very well!!! He made me a vegetarian “instant” curry that was the most sublime dish ever. When Yoshio said “instant”, I was picturing something from a box. Not so…the curry was a perfect blend of stock, coconut milk, and spices that rode a perfect limen between hot enough and too hot. Hot enough to excite the taste buds, yet mellow enough for the creamy coconut and the slightly musty Shiitake mushroom to be sensed. Served with his delicious rice, he was clever to put small sections of mandarin orange around the dish, which made it, not only decorative, but were also there to help cool you when the heat built up a little too much.

Also, with Yoshio there’s the discussion of food that is so enlightening! I learned that he comes from a family of gourmands. He told me stories of how his dad would take him out, when he was young, and instruct him on the best of foods. His sister is a French chef, trained in the Cordon Bleu style and he recalled when he was in the fifth grade, her teaching him to make curry (I bet it wasn’t “instant” then either!) I found that we had a lot in common, as my first foray in the culinary world happened in fifth grade also, when I skipped school, for the first and only time, to make Shrimp Newberg, trying to duplicate what I saw MY sister (another awesome cook) make that week!

A night of fine food, photography, good company, watching an artist create this unique line of foods, so foreign to me, but so interesting! I fell asleep that night, quite happy, appropriately enough, to a line from the “Hagakure” (The Book of the Samurai)

“Money is a thing that will be there when asked for. A good man is not so easily found”

I’m not so sure about the money thing, but Yoshio, Chef Saito…by any name…a good man indeed.